The oldest tree in Paris.

Monday gardens- Part 9.

The view from the Square René-Viviani towards Notre-Dame

I’ve started writing for Substack one year ago. At first it was monthly and then, starting in July, weekly- as a form of a challenge to myself. As I look back- and realise that this is, in fact, why a regular artistic practice is such a rich endeavour- I can see myself having done an interesting loop. I feel like I’m coming back to drawing but with a much more precise idea of what it is that I want to express.

I really want to explore that call back to visual arts, so for a while the visits to the gardens will be happenning twice a month. But I would like to offer you regular glimpses into my “artist’s studio” aka my desk as well, so I’m looking at still publishing almost every week. Tis’ the plan in any case.

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Over this in-between period from Christmas and up into the first days of the New Year, my thoughts have been turning a lot to the Notre Dame Cathedral. It has just opened back to the public after five years of reconstruction after the fire and, it seems to me, this re-opening has moved the « collective unconscious ». These are big words, but I truly feel that the re-opened cathedral has become a magnet of sorts, attracting people in. Somehow, most of my walks and wanderings in the last couple of weeks have brought me in the proximity of the cathedral. I haven’t yet entered it, due to the long lines, but it’s like postponing a pleasure, a meeting with an old friend.

A quick pen and ink sketch of ND de Paris.

Just the other day, I heard two young men talking next to me in a cafe. - Yes, eavesdropping is nothing to be proud of but they were speaking quite loudly. Also learning to listen in on the conversations whilst appearing uninterested yet managing to convey an eye-roll that will only be perceived by a third party, at another table, who in turn will offer you a just-as-unperceptible nod- is very much a Parisian art form. They were about to go and visit the cathedral. Both men were Parisians and seemed quite critical of the Church yet were very eager to go and start the New Year while visiting Notre Dame.

So it’s not surprising that I’ve chosen for this walk a small garden, close by Notre Dame, where stands the oldest tree in Paris. What I find to be true about the gardens I’ve visited (and in the course of my « self appointed artist’s residency of the unusual Parisian gardens » we’ve gone to 8 gardens so far- you can find all of them in the the “archive”) is that the lesser known ones are usually quite empty. Of course the dog walkers have a community of their own that follows a particular schedule of meetings. At lunch, when the weathers allows, even the smallest of parks offer their benches to those who want to enjoy some time away from their office desks. And of course, when the Kindergartens and primary schools close for the day, there is a rumbling stream of kids and their minders that enters the gates. The latter resigned to spend an hour or so seated while steam is being let off by the former. All in all though, unusual gardens are calm spaces.

But even in the well known gardens such as Tuilleries or Luxembourg there is always a space where visitors tend to congregate whilst neglecting other parts of the gardens. It would be interesting to film from above how the crowds are being distributed in the space over a day. I’m quite sure that we will see big movements of people on only a few of the larger axes. Few visitors choose a smaller path or a more tortuous one. I suppose today’s text is full of deep philosophical concepts…that are true nevertheless.

Today’s garden- square Viviani- could be considered a place that would be teeming with tourists. It is situated in the 5th Arrondissement, on the North side of the church of St Julien le Pauvre. This church is one of the oldest in Paris, built in the Middle Ages and has been a resting stop for those travelling on Santiago de Compostela, particularly for those needing medical attention. (It is said that Dante himself has prayed there.)

The garden is situated on the grounds of the ancient hotel. Just across the river stands Notre Dame de Paris and only a few meters away is situated the « Shakespeare and Company » bookstore that I wrote about in my previous newsletter.

Of course the weather wasn’t particularly favorable to lounging in the garden, but I’ve visited on summer days as well and even then people (and pigeons- but they follow the crumbs and thus the people) tend to assemble in the central part of the garden. Even in a small space like this one, everyone wants to stay close. Is it some kind of primitive instinct- the infamous safety in numbers?

You only have to take a few steps towards the wall of St Julien le Pauvre’s church to find yourself alone with a majestic personality : the Black locust (Robinia Pseudoacaccia). It is said to have been planted in 1601 by Jean Robin (1550- 1629), a botanist who has served three kings ( Henri III, Henri IV and Louis XIII). In French the name of the tree, Robinier, comes from Jean Robin’s last name.

The tree is exceptionally tall- 15 m according to the last measurement by the city of Paris whilst usually the black locusts are no higher than 10 m. It has been hit by lightning and thus the trunk is missing a piece lengthwise. It also has a support made out of concrete because the weight of its age has caused the old creature to lean to the side.

I didn’t stay long in the garden mostly because of the cold. But just being there- en tête à tête with this amazing creature of a tree was wonderful. There was also a feeling of loneliness coming from it. Maybe, when you have far outlived all of your contemporaries, feeling lonely is inevitable. I wrote myself a note to come and see the Tree in May when it will be in bloom and bring her a little gift.

I finished off the visit in St Julien le Pauvre where the parishioners who take care of the crêche have outdone themselves with a stunning display!

This photo barely does the crèche justice but I will post a video later on.

I hope that you’ve enjoyed this short visit to the venerable tree in the heart of Paris. Don’t hesitate to leave a comment or to simply press “heart”- it is always a wonderful feeling to see that. But, most importantly, I would like to thank you all from the bottom of my heart for being here and to wish you a gentle and peaceful New Year!